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Birthstones Education Gemstones Uncategorized

Tourmaline the Birthstone of October

Tourmaline are most known for displaying several colors within the same gemstone. Those of them with very clear color distinctions are highly prized stones. One more popular version of this is the watermelon tourmaline with bands of color resembling its name sake. As with other gemstones it is the impurities that give Tourmaline their color. Iron and Titanium cause green and blue coloring, manganese produces reds, pinks, and yellows.

Most Tourmaline are found in the Americas though there are deposits around the globe. The most notable mines are in Brazil, California, and Maine. Tourmaline were discovered in the 1500’s by Spanish conquistadors in the Americas but they were originally mistaken for emeralds. It was not until the 1800’s that Tourmaline were recognized as a distinct mineral species. Although tourmaline are touted as an America gemstone they were most popular in China until their economic collapse in 1912 which nearly whipped out the tourmaline market.

Tourmaline has some very interesting characteristics as a mineral, it is both Pyroelectric and Piezoelectric, meaning that it generates an electric current under heat and under pressure. Piezoelectric materials have been and are being experimented with as alternative energy sources to harness the energy of crowds of people moving about. One foot step can produce enough energy to power a pair of light bulbs for a couple seconds.

Here are a few beautiful Tourmaline for your enjoyment.

California Tourmaline. San Diego County's famed tourmaline mines - including the Tourmaline Queen, Tourmaline King, Stewart, Pala Chief and Himalaya - produced the 12 crystals and four cut gems on display. One of the earliest reports of tourmaline in California was in 1892 in association with lepidolite mining. Much of the pink and red tourmaline from California was shipped to China because the Chinese Dowager Empress Tz'u Hsi was especially fond of the color. There, craftsmen carved the tourmaline into snuff bottles and other pieces to be set in jewelry. One of the crystal specimens on display was a gift from tycoon, collector and morganite namesake J.P. Morgan to Andrew Carnegie.
California Tourmaline. San Diego County’s famed tourmaline mines – including the Tourmaline Queen, Tourmaline King, Stewart, Pala Chief and Himalaya – produced the 12 crystals and four cut gems on display. One of the earliest reports of tourmaline in California was in 1892 in association with lepidolite mining. Much of the pink and red tourmaline from California was shipped to China because the Chinese Dowager Empress Tz’u Hsi was especially fond of the color. There, craftsmen carved the tourmaline into snuff bottles and other pieces to be set in jewelry. One of the crystal specimens on display was a gift from tycoon, collector and morganite namesake J.P. Morgan to Andrew Carnegie.
Tourmaline, Maine (top left-7.01 cts, top right-7.57 cts, center-3.96 cts, bottom left-5.61 cts, bottom right-5.95 cts)
Tourmaline, Maine (top left-7.01 cts, top right-7.57 cts, center-3.96 cts, bottom left-5.61 cts, bottom right-5.95 cts)
GIA collection# 23771. Tourmaline group from Himalaya mine, Mesa Grande, CA, USA. Gift of William F. Larson.
GIA collection# 23771. Tourmaline group from Himalaya mine, Mesa Grande, CA, USA. Gift of William F. Larson.
This 376.85-carat tourmaline in the collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History is carved by O. Hansen, using the colors of the tourmaline as part of the design.
This 376.85-carat tourmaline in the collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History is carved by O. Hansen, using the colors of the tourmaline as part of the design.
Categories
Diamonds Education Gemstones Technical Uncategorized

Lab Created Gem Stones the Verneuil Process

Created deep in the earth under tremendous heat and pressure gemstones are a natural wonder serving as a reminder of natures beauty and power. They have always bee sought after and coveted by man kind all across the world for their beauty and rarity. But with today’s advances in technology and our understanding of chemistry allow man to do what took nature millions of years in just a tiny fraction of the time. There are several processes capable of creating precious gemstones that are chemically and optically identical to their natural counter parts. The Fusion or Verneuil process was the first to be developed.

The first viable process developed by Verneuil in 1902 is still the simplest and most cost effective process to date and is still widely in use. It requires 99.9995% pure powder of the stone you’re wishing to create as well as any additives required for the desired color or other desired characteristics. The powder is dropped slowly down a funnel where it falls through a flame that melts the powder as it falls through creating droplets of molten metal. The droplets fall on to a small rod below that is slowly lowered as the molten material builds up. This process is very similar to how icicles form, water running down and freezing as it reaches the tip slowly building up over time.

The resulting material is chemically identical to a natural ruby, sapphire or whichever stone you’re forming. The only way to differentiate a stone created in this process from a natural gemstone is the planes in the crystal formation. If the stone was formed in nature these planes would all run parallel to each other however a lab stone created in this fashion would have a slight curve to these planes most notably along the peripheries.

Lab created gemstones can be just a beautiful as their natural counter parts and are fraction of the cost to consumers. While the vast majority of them are used for industrial purposes they are becoming ever more present in the consumer jewelry market place. Strict regulations on the marketing and sale of manmade gemstones are in place to protect consumers from having these stones origins misrepresented. It may be considered a Faux Pas to use lab created gemstones but beauty is in the eye of the beholder and they are not going to know the difference anyway. Check out some of these images of the process below.

Flame-fusion-of-corundum-GIA
A lab created Ruby made using the fusion process.
Alumina-Powder
Pure Alumina Powder used in the creation of Rubies and Sapphires.
Categories
Custom Jewelry Designer Spotlights Diamonds Education Uncategorized

Designer Spotlight: Rachel Boston

Rachel is a London born and based jewelry designer, educated at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design as well as the Gemological Institute of America. She is becoming more and more recognized for her work as she was nominated for New Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards, and chosen as only one of seven designers to exhibit in the “Made in London:Jewellery Now” exhibition in the Museum of London.

Rachel’s design signature is strong natural setting with often aggressive posturing and a nod to London punk rock. There is a sophisticated edge to her designs and a quality about it that keeps it off the shelves of hot topic and on those of luxury retailers. Boston has risen near the top of new designers all driving raw organic designs, with her attention to detail and direct response to the natural inclusions within stones. From the Cosmos Collection of stunning diamond slices with delicate ballet of inclusions rivaling a Cy Twombly painting, to the living forms of “The Ritual” Collection Boston has done the booming trend right.

Here are a few of our favorite pieces of Rachel’s. Explore her collections and find something that sparks a creative fire in you to make your own Boston inspired custom piece.

Lizard Skin Cuff - Rachel Boston
Lizard Skin Cuff – Rachel Boston
diamondslice-Nimbus-Rachel-Boston
diamondslice-Nimbus-Rachel-Boston
DAGAZ-white-diamonds-Rachel-Boston
DAGAZ-white-diamonds-Rachel-Boston

 

Categories
Custom Jewelry Diamonds Education Hearts & Arrows Diamonds Uncategorized

Custom Making Jewelry (Part 2 Diamond Guide)

 

The comments that Peter made in his last entry on the importance of research are well taken. This applies equally to both the mounting and to the center stone. I am still surprised that frequently during our initial meeting customers have little idea what they are hoping to create. This obviously throws the creative ball solidly into my court as far as design and although I am always game to move in what I feel is the appropriate direction, it is obviously helpful if there is some input at the outset. After all, our goal is to thrill the customer, not me. As Peter notes, a tour of the local jewelry stores really is a great place to start. Make it fun, commit a Saturday to inspiration and education (if you are lucky….). Include a stop for a special lunch – maybe a glass of wine….This exercise may also provide an opportunity to do some diamond research. If you do intend to look at diamonds here are a list of basic questions and recommendations that might help you elicit whatever information is available:
Ask if the diamond certified by an independent grading authority such as the Gemological Institute of America. If not by GIA then find out by which one. Bear in mind that not all grading authorities were created equal and that some companies even offer their own very convincingly packaged certificates claiming characteristics that have not been independently verified. .
Insist on getting the SPECIFIC color and clarity grades of the diamond? By this I mean do not settle for a range such as “GHI” or VS2 to SI2, or generalizations such as “all our diamonds are blue white”. If a range is offered and the stone is of interest then insist on specific grades for both color and clarity. Inform the store that it is your intention to have the diamond independently graded by a certified gemologist. Say that you will require written documentation detailing the specific color and clarity as a condition of purchase and check on their return policy if the diamond has been misrepresented in any way.
Ask if the diamond has fluorescence. Fluorescence is a fairly complex subject and it is a characteristic that is not always discussed (or visible) in jewelry stores. It may not be noticeable until seen under the correct fluorescent light. Generally speaking fluorescence in white stones is not considered desirable. In slightly off color stones, perhaps in the J/K color area, faint fluorescence may slightly minimize yellowness. Stronger fluorescence may make the diamond appear milky or cloudy in certain lighting conditions. Regardless, fluorescence should be reflected in the pricing of diamonds and should be disclosed.
Ask to see the diamond under a microscope. You do not have to know what you are looking for, but casually asking with confidence may change the demeanor and approach of a salesperson and make them more inclined to share important information. If the store does not offer a microscope for the use of clients that raises a red flag. To me that’s a little like asking someone to buy a house without going inside as all inclusions in diamonds that are given SI2 or better clarity grades by GIA require magnification to be visible.
If anywhere during their presentation the salesperson uses the expression “trust me” – RUN!

Categories
Custom Jewelry Education Uncategorized

Custom Making Jewelry (Part 1 Getting Started)

An educated customer is a custom jewelers best customer, as long as they come with a layer of humility still intact. There is nothing more difficult, albeit potentially great, than a customer who comes in not having any specific direction they would like to pursue. When a client comes in without a foundation the first meeting can either be a long and arduous task or brief “ah ha” moment. If you’re just beginning the process I always recommend starting online with a simple Google image search. It’s the fastest and easiest way to get your first glimpse at what’s out there and begin to narrow down your search. After you have exhausted the first hundred pages of images you’re probably ready to see what some of your favorites look like in the flesh. A quick search of some local jewelry retailers to confirm they have pieces of similar style and price available for you to take a look at should be your next step. Take a look around their entire show case, you never know what you might find. Most likely you’re not going to find a complete engagement ring that has all the qualities you’re looking for, but don’t fret, you’re still just getting a feel for it all. Take pictures of rings you like or just rings with parts you like, your custom jeweler can always combine the shank from one ring with the halo of another and it will be much easier to explain with a picture. Now that you seen the real thing you might want to make one more quick image search online with your new found ability to visualize the real thing and collect some finale samples for the designer. Congratulations you’re now ready to meet with a custom jewelry designer and start your project.

Categories
Custom Jewelry Education Uncategorized

Metal Fashion Trends

My how the “hot metal of choice” pendulum has swung over the last few decades. I recall when I first arrived in Texas in the late 70’s 14 karat yellow was definitely the “golden child” of the precious metals. It seemed that even the engagement business revolved largely around yellow gold and basked in the warmth and richness that it seemed to symbolize. Looking back I believe that most yellow gold jewelry designs still conjured up images of doubloons spilling from treasure chests, bullion in stacks in the treasury vaults or nuggets of gold found by panhandlers in the river beds of California. For some it seemed to hold the tacit stamp of approval of exotically named European designers who filled the cases of the fashionable boutiques with sumptuous creations in the 18 karat variety of this opulent material. In those days, for many bridal customers. Platinum was simply the metal that our Grandmothers had celebrated.
Little did we know that during the nineties we would be once again hoisting our flask temperatures by 150 degrees Fahrenheit for white gold casting and rolling out the “big torches” (or induction coils….) that are required to achieve the extreme temperatures necessary to melt platinum casting grain. The pendulum had once more swung in favor of the white metals not only for the production of engagement rings, but also for many of the basic staples of a fine jewelry wardrobe. This trend became particularly strong in the case of diamond ear studs, diamond eternity rings, classic straight line bracelets and Riviera necklaces in which yellow gold was correctly believed to adversely affect diamond color. The frequent questions about the differences between 14 and 18 karat yellow gold were soon replaced by discussions centered on the practical and visual differences between 14 and eighteen karat white gold and platinum (and occasionally even palladium). These were questions concerning durability, malleability and metal memory, rhodium plating and maintenance.
Concurrently gentlemen had become enamored of less conventional, more industrial and certainly less “precious” materials to make their personal jewelry statements. There seemed to be an emerging “inverted snobbery” surrounding the price and construction of men’s’ wedding bands. Gentleman who comfortably invested heavily in both time and money in a ladies engagement ring had become virtually dismissive when choosing their own ring, often demonstrating more concern about durability, scratch resistance and lighter materials than either style or value. Today we continue to receive as many enquiries about Tungsten, Titanium, cobalt and stainless steel as we do the more traditional “precious” metals for men’s’ bands.
“And then along came Rose”…………Although popular in Russia in the 19th. Century and here in the early 20th, only during the last fifteen years has rose gold really achieved universal acceptance as an alternative metal for use in both bridal and other jewelry. This was in part spurred on by the introduction of successful collections featuring rose gold from prominent houses such as Cartier and Tiffany & Co.
Here at Dickinson by Design the “hot metal pendulum” of 2015 currently hovers just slightly “white of center”. We have however definitely seen a resurgence of interest in both 14 and 18 karat yellow gold over the last decade. Popular fashion jewelry designers have created pieces in yellow with a more greenish overtone and some customers are intrigued by the higher ratios of gold to alloy that are the norm in other countries. It is normal to discuss hue and shade and we are more often called upon to blend alloys to achieve subtle differences in tone.
Has the ever shifting web based ocean of fashion alternatives that constantly washes over us diluted or reinforced the “power of the trend”?
The pendulum swings……..

Categories
Custom Jewelry Uncategorized

A Custom Perspective.

After many years working in traditional jewelry retail environments I have found that life in our custom jewelry studio is liberating. There is a sense of freedom that accompanies starting with a “blank slate” and creating exactly what a client describes. The focus is now on the creation and not simply the location of the piece. This does require a completely different approach to the interaction with a customer – less salesmanship and more craftsmanship, more interpretation less direction. The process requires heightened listening skills, an open mind and a certain humility. On occasion it may even require a thick skin…..
Success in the custom arena at any level demands not only a superior knowledge of jewelry manufacturing and materials, but also the intuition and the experience to bring only the most necessary technical considerations to the table. Ideally it is the combined imaginations of the participants that breathe life into the emerging creation……
Naturally In the real world the daily routine rarely culminates in explosive genesis. However, from simplest of shadow bands to the most creatively or technically challenging project, the exchange is as fresh and energized as the orchestrator wills it to be. It is never constrained by the familiar mantra of “sell only what is in the case”. Success in this fanciful world can truly be uniquely gratifying. It is a paradoxical world in which to the creative few only by beginning with nothing can you open the window to everything…….
Every custom jewelry shop is as individual and unique as the designs that pass through the hallways. Ultimately each reflects a combination of the drive, the skill and experience of all those contributing to the finished product, the equipment and resources available to accomplish the work, and the philosophy, goals and personalities of those at the helm.